This is the basic components of a 3D printed speaker; you need to add magnets and copper wire, the plates are CNCd

The Surround should be printed in TPU or this speaker may not work. I use ninjatek TPU but it should work with everything from 85A-97A it will just change the frequency response (higher shore hardness = high frequency response-- 85A will act like a small woofer and 97A should act like a mid)

Magnets are as follows - read the info at the following link before continuing:

https://www.stanfordmagnets.com/are-magnets-dangerous.html#:~:text=Precautions%20in%20Daily%20Life%201%20Pinching%3A%20Strong%20magnets,devices%20are%20sensitive%20to%20strong%20magnetic%20fields.%20

2 - Ceramic Magnets (90mm OD - 35MM ID @15mm Height )

MAGENTS OF THIS SIZE ARE DANGEROUS, THEY CAN SHATTER IF LET FLY TOWARDS EACH OTHER, AND CAN ALSO PINCH AND CUT SKIN OR EVEN BREAK SMALL BONES, ESPECIALLY WHEN USED WITH STEEL- USE THESE DESIGNS AT YOUR OWN RISK - WEAR PROPER PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)

also need :

12 - m3 * 8 mm bolts

Copper wire is magnet wire with a .15 mm OD i used enough to set it up at 5 OHMs you'll have to check your manufacture spec of wire for OHM per 1000 ft and then do some conversion math to get your desired OHM rating. I Also used a coil winder to get a smoother and cleaner coil wrapping, you can do this by hand it just takes longer.

--MAKE SURE YOUR AMP IS RATED FOR THE OHM YOU'RE WIRING FOR-- you can always wire higher than your amps rated OHM but never lower.

Magnet bodies/coil should be printed in PETG minimum preferably ASA though as they can get warm.

everything else can be printed in PLA,PETG,ABS etc.

use vase mode on the former - full body

top and bottom plate are CNCed out of a 1018 steel.

video includes a short build montage and an exploded view you can pause on.

USE THE ASSEMBLERS TO SET THE MAGNETS IN THE APPROPIATE PLACE - I RECOMMEND GLUING MAGNETS AND PLATES

Video Link: https://youtu.be/JL1Q9CbP0cI