Ordering Instructions

Front Shell & Mid Shell:

• Process: SLA
• Material: Resin UTR-8100 (transparent)
• Finish: Transparent(Spray varnish)

Rear Shell & Buttons:

• Process: SLA
• Material: Any (Recommended: PWR Dark Black, Waxed Finish or Standard white material (UTR 8360))

(I've only tested the front and mid shell as instructed above, the rear shell in PWR Dark Black, and the buttons in Standard white, so I don't know how well they'll work with different materials)

Thin Wall Risk:

There are some parts of the shells that are slightly thinner than PCBWay's recommended thickness. These are very small sections, so I believe that the risk of a problem is low. I accepted the risks and received parts without issues. You can automatically accept the risk when you order by checking this box:

Summary

This project consists of 4 parts, which work for both the Pokewalker and the Wii U Fit Meter: The front, mid, and rear shells, and the buttons. The front and mid shells should be printed from transparent resin so that the screen/IR communications will work correctly. The rear shell and buttons can be printed in whichever resin/color of your choice. I only included the rear shell version without the clip because I was worried about the durability of a resin printed clip.

The 3D printed parts are exact copies of the originals, so they can all be used interchangeably . For example, you can use the original buttons with the 3D printed shell, the original mid shell with the 3D printed front and rear shells, etc.

There might be some thin sections of the shell that are brought up during the order. These are typically necessary and should not be an issue.

Usage

Electronics from the Pokewalker/Wii U Fit meter can be removed from the original shell and placed within these parts with no modifications. The buzzer is glued into the original mid shell and must be carefully pealed off. I suggest using a plastic tweezers for this to avoid damaging it, or simply reusing the mid shell with the speaker still attached. The screen is attached to the front shell with double sided adhesive, this can be carefully pried free from the front shell and placed into the new front shell.

Please review a Pokewalker teardown online beforehand: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Pokewalker+Disassembly/163813

Because the transparent resin comes with the varnish applied, sometimes the buttons/ button holes will need a bit of sanding to ensure that the buttons don't get stuck. This varnish can also cause gaps between the the mid and rear shells, so I recommend re-using the original mid shell if possible.

The buttons come as one piece, due to their size, and must be cut free from each other. I recommend using flush cutters or a sharp exacto knife to do this. Be careful when cutting free the middle button, the slightly thicker part of the sprue is part of the button, do not clip this part off. See picture for cut locations.

Some additional hardware is needed for the rear shell:

1x M2 x 0.4mm thread, 4mm long machine screw, such as this: https://www.mcmaster.com/94017A101/

1x M2 side mount retaining ring, such as this: https://www.mcmaster.com/98317A202/

Design

This project was assisted by the impressive Wii U Fit Meter 3D scan created by Wesk from the Bitbuilt forums: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/pokewalker-pedometer-scan.5756/

The scan was used to ensure that the outer surface matched to the original as closely as possible. The rest of the shell was completely re-modeled based on hand measurements.