May 19,2022
6,272 views
end-flag
  • Comments(21)
  • Likes(20)
Upload photo
You can only upload 5 files in total. Each file cannot exceed 2MB. Supports JPG, JPEG, GIF, PNG, BMP
0 / 10000
  • I am using Sony MPF 920 Z/161 August 2007 with the image hack. Pass it from df1 to df0 and make a jumper in the sensor. Works perfect without adapter

    Reply
  • Hi! I just built this now and it works but it is rather unstable (as many others having built this has reported). Anyway, I found a fault. Filter cap C5 is not connected to 5V. Only to GND, so it is not filtering noise on the 8520 I guess. I'll try to fix that and see if it helps.

    Thomas Christoph 2024-02-21 20:48:17Reply

    That's a pretty dubious comment "as many others having built this has reported". People will always have problems with DIY builds. Every single time, it's come down to either user error or dubious parts. The board has proven to work over and over again. I have built MANY of these boards and continue to have absolutely no issues. The capacitor in question is simply a smoothing capacitor and has absolutely no effect on circuit stability. You may choose to connect the other end, it won't harm anything and certainly won't hurt, however it's not going to cause or cure any "stability" issues you may be experiencing. To that, I would suggest you look to the parts/drive you chose for your build. Some internet parts vendors offer parts of questionable functionality which may be causing an instability you may be experiencing. Sadly I won't be able to diagnose your project, as it is after-all a DIY build.

    Tommy Ovesen 2024-02-24 03:34:21Reply

    It was by no means meant as criticism. I just wanted to let you know about my experience in building this.

    Reply
  • Do you have a document somewhere that describes the jumper options so that I make sure they are configured properly?

    Thomas Christoph 2023-11-23 01:52:06Reply

    Hello. All of the jumper settings are contained in the BOM: https://github.com/COREi64/1581-Enhanced/blob/main/BOM/1581.Enhanced.BOM.pdf

    Akutra Cea 2023-11-23 17:26:34Reply

    Thank you that was very helpful. I am trying to connect an Amiga Floppy Drive, does the cable need to have the twist or straight? I am going to power it with a relatively new Electroware PSU64/1541 combo power supply via the power DIN.

    Thomas Christoph 2023-11-23 20:47:26Reply

    Using an Amiga floppy drive will allow you to connect the cable straight to the board. The cable is entirely straight through, no twist. Just make sure that pin 1 of the drive lines up with pin 1 on the pcb. That's all you need to worry about. The power supply you're going to use sounds just fine. Ensure that the power jumper is set correctly to use that power supply. Right behind the power switch there's a pin header. Put the jumper across 1-2 for the style of power supply you're going to be using.

    Akutra Cea 2023-11-26 03:39:52Reply

    I am seeing device not present on my C64. So, I plugged in my 1541-II and verified the configuration works with the 1541. - I configured the board jumpers based upon the BOM. - I used the same configuration as the 1541-II (dip switches both UP, I plugged in the cables the same way) - I programmed the 27C256 with 318045-02 and verified the data on the chip (J3 is open) - J2 is jumpered 1-2 for DIN power. - JP2 is closed for the AS6C62256-55PCN - JP3 is closed and JP1 is open for the W65C02 - the Amiga Floppy drive is connected with a non-twist, straight cable pin 1 to pin 1 - Floppy power is connected from the board to the Amiga floppy drive I powered on both the C64 and 1581D Enhanced - I can see the floppy drive spin for a moment and hear it quietly power on. - I checked the 2-pin thru-hole connector 1581D PWR and verified 5 volts of power - I executed the command LOAD "$",8. Only to see device not present error. - additionally, I tried both device 8 and 11 with the dip switches both up and down, but no difference. Do you have and ideas? How can I troubleshoot this?

    Thomas Christoph 2023-11-27 13:57:39Reply

    Hello. There are two things I can suggest. 1. Double check the soldering on the device selector switch, and try accessing devices 8,9,10,11 2. My testing has shown (and I really need to update this page), that the signal levels required for TTL operation when using the W65C02 aren't sufficient to allow the W65C02 to function correctly. I recommend you reconfigure for a standard 6502 cpu and replace the W65C02 with a regular MOS compatible 6502 (like what you'd find in a 1541 or a VIC-20). If you could try those and let me know.

    Reply
  • Hello! The 3.5 drive adapter is necessary(toms01)? Is there any simple modification to use a pc floppy drive without the drive adapter plate? I have modified a pc floppy drive to work on Amiga and it gives DRIVE NOT READY error thanks!

    Thomas Christoph 2023-08-23 10:04:44Reply

    I wish I could say that there were a single modification for floppy drives, but that's not the case. And, the toms01 adapter doesn't work with every drive, although I have had success with many of the common brands. Why your particular floppy drive isn't working, I'm afraid I cannot say. I've found that people have had the most success with the guy's adapter board and brand name newer floppy drives (ie: sony, samsung, teac etc.).

    Ezequiel Ezequiel64 2023-08-28 11:46:53Reply

    it works perfect now!! I have used a Sony mpf 420-1 modified for Amiga without toms01 adapter. My problem was in the voltage. The 7805 (without heatsink) got very hot and failed. I am very satisfied with your excellent work. Regards

    Thomas Christoph 2023-08-29 11:51:19Reply

    So pleased to hear that you got your drive up and running! Thank-you for letting me know! Enjoy...

    Reply
  • Hi, I've just received the boards from PCBWay and I assembled one. I loved the board and the extra options, but I ran in troubles during the initial test. I checked both power rails and they seem ok (btw it seems to me the 12v is always on, even when the drive is switched off). The problem is the activity LED blink constantly when the drive is attached to a C=64 and refused to stop even when you switch off both the C=64 and the drive and then power on the drive again (you need to unplug the serial cable). If you check the drive status by the drive channel the C=64 hangs until you power off the drive. Same behavior if you fire any drive command (i.e. LOAD or format commands, etc.) Too bad on the Ray Carlsen's pages there is no mention about this kind of error. Any idea?

    Thomas Christoph 2022-10-11 21:16:41Reply

    What CPU are you using? If you're using the 65C02, try using a 6502 instead.

    Giovanni giobbi 2022-10-12 21:44:21Reply

    COREi64, thanks for your anwser. Eventually I found what was causing the issue: the EPROM I programmed and verified, and seemed to be ok, didn't work in the 1581 board. I programmed another EPROM and now everything works fine. I also have a big issue with the Toms adapter board; using the board I get a "drive not ready" error. I solved removing the board and modifying the disk drive, setting it as DS0 and switching the RDY signal on pin #34 and DC signal to pin #2... and finally my first of two 1581 drive started to work (I planned to build two of them). I still don't understand what's wrong with the Toms adapter, I tried with two different FDD set as DS0 or DS1, same result. Any clue will be highly appreciated :-)

    Giovanni giobbi 2022-10-13 07:27:15Reply

    SOLVED --- I found a bad chip (74LS14) that stopped to work randomly. It prevented the drive from working, sometimes, giving false clues about where the problem was. Hard to find (it took me hours) but I finally solved. Both the mainboards and the adapters work like a charm, I'm very happy. I 3D printed two cases and now I have two 1581-replica that I will probably use for few hours and put on a shelf for many months LOL

    Reply
  • Hello, about the 3D printable case: the STL files are free for download on thingiverse (btw I printed that one, and it fit perfectly). Is there any difference between yours and that one?

    Thomas Christoph 2022-09-08 21:15:07Reply

    My design prints better as I designed it to work to the strengths of FDM printers, is stronger, more durable and is designed to use superior fasteners.

    Reply
  • Hi there! I have a few comments I'd like to pass on to you - this is only meant as feedback, not as a direct critcism. Firstly, I've noticed the PCB revision I received seems to have an Silkscreen issue, and by that, i mean you have two sockets marked up as "U4". Obviously one is meant for the 1772 IC, but the one closest the edge is for the 8520 IC, which doesn't concurr with the BOM. You might wish to review your silkscreen. Secondly, the ROM. Whilst getting the standard single ROM configuration might be alright, you don't provide information on how the dual rom configuration should be provided other than the switch to indicate which rom the drive system would use. Where in the ROM ic's memory should the second ROM be programmed? Finally, whilst you mention about the second board capability, unless I've been in dire need of new spectacles, you haven't provided clear wiring diagrams or information about how to connect a second board to the first board. Same for the serial connection, is it straight through or do you need to have a couple wires trade places at the opposite end? Additionally, there is a small area to the right of the 6 pin dins, with 4 solder points marked off by silk screen. Is this for any function? I feel you need a small "primer" document to say "Power options - wire a switch as so to JP2, then you can change back and forth between DIN socket or your own PSU." Whilst the BOM does cover a few things, a straight up document would be most helpful. I hope you'll accept these comments as feedback to help make this better for all.

    Reply
VOTING 0 votes
  • 0 USER VOTES
0.00
  • YOUR VOTE 0.00 0.00
You may also like