(DIY) C64iSTANBUL
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Oct 29,2020
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ATARI ST PS/2 MOUSE CONVERTER (ADAPTER) - PIC16F628(A)

This Atari PS/2 Mouse Converter adapter supports; three mouse buttons, most of optical PS/2 mice. And it is very easy to make.
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Published: Oct 29,2020
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Topic
DIY Electronics
Computers & USB
Programmable Logic Projects
Atari ST usb mouse Atari st mouse atari 520st atari 1040st Atari mouse converter Atari mouse interface Atari mouse adapter Atari st mouse converter Atari st mouse interface Atari st mouse adapter
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  • About to order the pic's and there is a few that I am unsure if it will work..
    PIC16F628A-I/P
    PIC16F628A-E/P
    PIC16F628A-I/SO
    PIC16F628A-E/SS

    and so on, are they all compatible?

    Jan 11,20252 Comments
    (DIY) C64iSTANBUL 2025-01-11 21:19:37Reply

    I don't know, I haven't tried different versions. I just tried the plain version PIC16F628A DIP-18 package and it works. Thanks for asking.

    (DIY) C64iSTANBUL 2025-01-11 21:22:27Reply

    https://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/40044G.pdf

    Reply

  • Archive.org link no longer works because of Ddos attack! Please upload hex code to other working download link!

    Oct 13,20241 Comments
    (DIY) C64iSTANBUL 2024-10-13 20:50:06Reply

    I did it, thank you.

    Reply

  • Hello. Does anyone have an idea why one of these adapters and a PS/2 mouse might not work on one particular 1040 ST, but works in others? This particular ST works fine with an original mouse and this adapter and PS/2 mouse work fine on another ST. It is also not the connector, as I have re-soldered and, again, it works with an original mouse. I have also tried upgrading the TOS of this particular 1040 ST with no change. It just boots with the cursor displayed, unmovable. The mouse is optical and does light up. Curious what hardware issue this 1040 ST may have or what software tweak might be required... Has anyone else ever experienced this type of issue or have any suggestion? Thank you!

    Mar 18,20240 Comments
    Reply

  • Nov 09,20230 Comments
    Reply

  • Do you have any hints for debugging? I do not see any solder-bridges. Pin 1 of the IC points into the direction of the DB9. Writing and verifying the hex file ended up in an "OK". But it does not work at all with an old ps/2 ballmouse that runs perfectly on a PC. I simply booted an empty disk on the ST. No CPL, nada. Help appreciated.

    Nov 08,20235 Comments
    Norman Wehrle 2023-11-08 06:03:55Reply

    A PS2 compatible optical Logitech does not show any sign of live (no red light at the bottom) with a PS2 adapter. The multimeter shows no solder bridges.

    (DIY) C64iSTANBUL 2023-11-08 06:18:08Reply
    Reply@ Norman Wehrle：

    This is a very simple circuit, I can think of two points where you can make mistakes. Firstly, you may have installed the PIC IC upside down. Secondly, while programming the PIC IC, the security bits may not have been selected correctly as shown in the picture.

    (DIY) C64iSTANBUL 2023-11-08 06:35:56Reply
    Reply@ Norman Wehrle：

    Or you can try another PS/2 mouse. Maybe the mouse you tried is not compatible with this circuit.

    Norman Wehrle 2023-11-08 13:52:31Reply
    Reply@ (DIY) C64iSTANBUL：

    Thank your for the fast reply. My bet is on the flash process. I used the minipro CLI under MacOS without any additional parameters.

    Norman Wehrle 2023-11-09 04:36:43Reply
    Reply@ (DIY) C64iSTANBUL：

    Sucess, works like a charm. If you stumple over this and you have only the CLI tool minipro at hand, do this: 1. create a file fuses.conf (see screenshot) 2. minipro -p PIC16F628A@DIP18 -w PIC16F628.HEX 3, minipro -p PIC16F628A@DIP18 -c config -w fuses.conf

    Reply

  • Nov 08,20230 Comments
    Reply

  • How did you remove the metal cover from the db9?

    Nov 07,20232 Comments
    (DIY) C64iSTANBUL 2023-11-07 06:11:17Reply

    Before soldering the connector, I inserted a flat head screwdriver between the two metals of the 9-way connector. After the gaps between the metals were slightly opened, I forced them apart with the help of pliers and a screwdriver, you can see in the pictures above. Thank you for asking.

    Norman Wehrle 2023-11-07 18:51:55Reply
    Reply@ (DIY) C64iSTANBUL：

    Thanks. In the meantime I did it differently with a good result. I gripped the two side flaps with two pairs of pliers and twisted them against each other. At some point, material fatigue set in and the metal was removed. Takes 60-120 seconds.

    Reply

  • Hi there. Can you share gerber files and scheme? Because in the section "Circuit diagrams and Schematics" no scheme and diagrams.

    Oct 14,20211 Comments
    (DIY) C64iSTANBUL 2021-10-15 03:11:32Reply

    Hello, I am sorry I do not share gerbers. You can find circuit diagrams and schematics on the Internet, it is an open source project.

    Reply
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